South by Southwest - Week 3: Utah - More Utah, Nevada (and California)

 Nash lived in Tennessee, first as a hungry stray and then as Maria's beloved first dog, moved to Virginia with Maria and then moved in with us, and now he is on the road like a true American nomad. It's hard to tell how these changes register. Nash seems to feeel at home wherever his people are. He doesn't seem to mind changes in climate (it was 33° when we woke up on Friday), in elevation (as high as 10,000 feet), in activity (strenuous hiking through Little Wild Horse Canyon or long days in the van); as long as we are with him and his dinner is on time, he's a happy guy. 

Joe has been training for this trip since 2022 when he started driving the Habitat Store truck and picking up construction materials and furniture. So far, he's driven 5,000 miles on this trip, minus the 100 or so miles I drove one day. He says he enjoys it, and he's got mad skills. Plus, we both agree that I am the better navigator (and camp cook). He's also in great shape for the hiking and climbing we've been doing at almost every stop. 

I, on the other hand, am in the process of rebuilding fitness after a summer of cancer and two major surgeries. It's easy to forget how much time the body needs to fully recover from such assaults. Nash and I have about the same stamina on hikes, so I am in good company. (Of course, his legs are only eight inches long!) Both of us are getting fitter every day.

This has been a week of parks - national and state – in Utah and Nevada: Canyondlands National Park, Goblin State Park, and Capitol Reef, Bryce Canyon, Zion, and Great Basin national parks. Great Basin was the biggest surprise, as I'd never heard of either the park or the geological formation it is named for. Although the basin itself is immense table-flat desert at around 5,000 feet elevation that stretches from western Utah to California, the park is mostly in the mountains overlooking it. We climed 13,000' Wheeler Peak all the way to the tree line – and snow! (And by "climbed" I mean "drove."

It's sad to see all the entrance stations and most of the park services closed with the shutdown. Most of the rangers we do talk to seem to agree that while painful, the shutdown is necessary to protect healthcare and democracy. It's taking a toll on the local economies around the parks, too. 

We've been sleeping mostly in free dispersed sites on BLM and National Forest land and generally had camping areas to ourselves. Nash gets to explore off-leash and enjoys the freedom that brings. Much of the area we've traveled through is certified Dark Sky country, and the stars are brilliant and countless. The Milky Way is so bright it's hard to imagine that we can barely see it at home. 

P.S. – We've been without cell service since Saturday morning, so this blog didn't go out as planned. Since then, we've driven clear across Nevada and into Northern California. We spent Sunday morning at Mono Lake, which is a salt lake in a volcanic crater dotted with calcified stalactites formed by fresh springs bubbling up into the salt water when the lake was deeper. Then it was on to Yosemite, which is, of course, stunning. We entered the park from the east, and drove the switchbacks and narrow road through the highest mountains and then down into the valley. The day came to an end before we could see everything, so we went out to the neighboring National Forest to try to find a place to sleep. The federal lands around Yosemite are less generous with camping opportunities than we were used to in Utah. After finding several campgrounds closed (one by a landslide) and being thwarted by countless "NO CAMPING" signs at every pull-off and side road, we finally found a BLM campground along the wild and scenic Marced River with a spot for $20. I saw a bobcat just before we went to bed, and this morning Nash woke us up at 6:30 with a deep growl and all hackles up. Something was out there – maybe a bear. Today we're back in Yosemite, exploring the valley by foot. Next? Who knows? Stay tuned for the next blog to find out. 

Canyonlands

Hiking in Goblin State Park

Our first slot canyon - Little Wildhorse in Utah. Lots of climbing over fallen boulders and sliding sideways through narrow passages. Slot canyons can be deadly if a storm dumps water anywhere along them; they fill up fast and the water slams through with little warning. Fortunately no rain was forecast that day.

Earlier rains left several pools in the canyon. This is the one, knee deep and several yards long, that made us turn back.

Hoodoos in Bryce Canyon

An arch in Bryce Canyon

My Resist shirt has been a hit with fellow travelers. 

Zion at sunset

A store in a cave in Utah

Brother Raven came by for a chat, clacking his beak at me as I clacked back. I hope I said something nice. 

At Mono Lake

The east entry station of Yosemite National Park, closed for the shutdown. On October 5, the whiteboard greeting is still listing September 30 events. For now, all entries to the park are free. 

 

Yosemite trees

Lambert Dome, Yosemite

Three and a half more weeks